After the second aborted property attempt, I took a little time to regroup. This proved to be a useful interlude to deal with some pressing personal issues like my wrecked back (after shifting 20 boxes of possessions 7 times in 7 months, if you count loading and unloading, from the time I left the UK), plus some lingering dental issues.

Regards the former, the situation went from mild to acute in the last few months and having seen several practitioners without much improvement, I was given the details of a ‘special’ osteopath in Porto. I overcame my dislike of cities and city driving and booked an appointment. I had planned to arrive half an hour early, so I could find parking and locate the premises, but I took a wrong exit from the motorway and ended up 15 minutes late. Finding the right building required the help of a local shop assistant, who accompanied me in my search. I found myself on the doorstep at the same time as the person who had the next appointment. We were led into a room that doubled as a waiting and treatment area, divided by a curtain, so we both took our respective sides. The Ukrainian therapist didn’t speak a word of English and when I turned on my translation device, it requested an update, so was unusable. The person waiting came to the rescue and called her sister who’s husband spoke English. Thus I was able to explain the problem.

I was instructed to lie face down on the floor. Not knowing what was coming, I was shocked when the therapist used a device up and down my back to soften it before manipulation. It felt and sounded like a tractor, and I thought my head was going to fall off! Manipulations followed. Osteopathy is brutal. It’s not my favourite treatment but when bones are out of alignment (which I felt mine were), manipulation is the only option. Another call to the sister’s husband, revealed the diagnosis. Two vertebrae were compressed, causing a curvature in my spine which had pulled the pelvis out of alignment and put pressure on the nerves. The damage justified the pain. I was ‘ordered’ to quit cycling for a month, at which point I nearly cried, and to do a particular exercise each day to strengthen the soft tissue and ligaments that supported the vertebrae. I felt notable relief, though not a 100% fix. Time will tell.

Dental matters followed. The first challenge was to find an English speaking ‘biological’ (naturopathic) dentist in the region. Thanks to the group of like-minded people I have met in northern Portugal, I managed to locate a marvellous dentist, though once again in Porto. It took courage to go as I have not had the best dental experience in the past. On the first appointment, as I lay in the chair (to my embarrassment) tears ran down my face. The poor dental nurse spent most of the time mopping them up. I think it was relief at finding someone I could trust and release of the burden of concern I had carried for some time. It felt like total surrender to the process of getting my gnashers sorted, and this will take 4 or 5 appointments.

Last week, I also took a trip back to Tras os Montes, the region where the previous property of interest had been located. I like the area and wanted to take a closer look. It adjoins the Spanish border in the north-east of Portugal. It is poor, rural and quiet. Big open spaces with few people or buildings, a notable lack of church bells, barking dogs, wind farms, cell towers and bonfire smoke. Agriculture abounds which mostly consists of olive and almond groves. The low lands have a Mediterranean look and feel, and the higher ground (my preferred option) is spectacularly beautiful with far reaching mountain views. The trade-off is the climate, which is a few degrees colder in winter than ideal, which means it can drop below zero. And a few degrees hotter in the summer. But dry, instead of humid which is a bonus.

Unfortunately, most of the area is in an agricultural or ecological conservation zone, which I now know I have to avoid, as it limits the scope of my project. So I will be looking for the proverbial drop in the ocean. But I am an optimist, and I believe the impossible is possible. During my visit, I drove to most of the towns in the region to see if I could connect with some local estate agents, and also to get a feel for the economy and the topography. Surprisingly, I only found two agents, both of whom double as architects, and they will help me with my search. I plan to relocate to the area, so I can experience the winter first hand and be in-situ for viewings. But before I move, my back and teeth must be fixed, otherwise I will be four hours from appointments.

Progress is slow at the moment. However, I have learned a lot about Portugal in the last 7 months including the good, the bad and the ugly, which has given me clarity on where to base my project and, hopefully, avoid making a costly mistake. Timing is everything and I trust this implicitly.

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